You are the owner of a classic car or truck. Great. You either want to show it or participate in car tours. Whether you have owned it for years or recently acquired it, you now must decide the best way to have your vintage car transported. Professional transport services are convenient but are not for everyone. Owning your own car trailer can be advantageous for several reasons, depending on your needs and circumstances. If you are considering buying a trailer to transport it yourself, the following tips are offered before and after you purchase one.
Research How You Will Be Using Your Truck and Trailer
Take the time to understand the weights mentioned as it applies to you. Look at other people’s truck and trailer arrangements and do not be afraid to ask questions. The dumbest question is the one that did not get asked. Learn from other peoples’ experiences. Take the time to plan where and how everything in your trailer will be placed. Layout where accessories will be stored. Track systems make products with both vertical and horizontal slots, so using it on the trailers inside walls is also possible. This allows multiple tie-down points for boxes and parts or tools. Understand how your trailer’s accessories such as inside lights are operated. Some tow vehicle’s trailer connector only provide 12 volt power while the ignition is on. Is this what you want? Consider ways to change this. As suggested when we discussed the back-up lights, maybe you want back-up lights for use when backing, but have separate flood lights mounted high that are switched on independently of the reverse lights.
Open or Enclosed Car Trailer
An open trailer has several advantages such as less weight, less cost, and even ease to tie-down the vehicle, but the enclosed trailer offers security and protection from the weather. Plus, the enclosed trailer shields your precious cargo from tempting eyes while enroute or overnight at a hotel. Peace of mind easily justifies the roughly $3,000 more you will pay for an enclosed trailer. Also, there is a slight improvement in gas mileage when pulling an enclosed trailer, so the decision, based on cost becomes even easier.
Weights — Gross Trailer Weight (GTW)
The Gross Trailer Weight is the total weight of the trailer and the cargo, which is the vehicle weight plus any accessories and ancillary items such as tools. Most two axle enclosed trailers weigh approximately 4,500 pounds and handle 10,500 pounds GTW which leaves approximately 6,000 pounds for vehicle and cargo. A full classic weighing 5,200 pounds does not leave a lot of room for extras. Consider a trailer with 12,000 GTW to increase your weight margin and can be as simple as ordering the trailer with larger tires and/or axles. Now another term: Gross Combined Vehicle Weight (GCVW) is the maximum allowable weight of the entire rig, loaded and ready to go. It includes not only the weight of the tow vehicle, but also its fuel, passengers, luggage or cargo, the dog, plus the weight of the trailer and everything inside. This results in manufacturers publishing a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). This is the design metric used by engineers to size things like the cooling system, engine and transmission, axle ratio and brakes. Take the time to understand these weight terms when choosing the trailer and tow vehicle and how they may affect suitability for your purpose.
Car Trailer Door Height
The height of the rear door should be considered when purchasing a trailer. Is a door height of 7 feet enough? Since some collectable cars of the “teen era” tend to be higher than a standard 6’8″ garage door, then you may require a larger trailer with a higher door. If you think you will never trailer a tall car, stay with a standard height.
Inner Fender Well Height
Does the trailer you are considering have an inner fender well? Will you be able to pull your car in and open the door without hitting the inner fender well? Ideally the door should swing above the inner fender well. 1930’s cars probably have enough clearance, but low slung 1950’s and 1960’s era cars may not. This would force you to climb out the window once inside or add/raise the height of the floor to get the necessary clearance, perhaps using wooden planks for added clearance. Consider details such as this when purchasing your trailer and determining how you are going to use it.
On each side of the inside of the trailer are wheel wells. These may be high enough to limit the movement of a car door when trying to open it after that car has been pulled in. Exiting out the window can be frustrating.
Car Trailer Hitch System
Another thing to consider when buying your classic car trailer is the hitch system. Here are two terms to think about: Weight Distribution and Sway Control. Weight distribution is the hitch system’s ability to transfer some of the trailer’s weight to the tow vehicle’s chassis. When the weight of the trailer (called tongue weight) is added to the rear of the tow vehicle, the rear of the tow vehicle will be lowered under this weight. The tow vehicle can more than likely handle this weight, but it does alter the tow vehicle’s original posture and its handling properties. In an extreme case, the downward pressure of the trailer weight behind the rear wheels of the tow vehicle can cause the rear wheels to act as a fulcrum, causing upward lift on the front wheels reducing front wheel contact with the road. This can drastically affect steering ability, especially on wet pavement. By including a weight distribution hitch system, essentially you maintain the tow vehicle’s posture as if the trailer were not connected. Sway control minimizes the trailer’s movement that pivots around the hitch ball. The practical benefit is when being passed by other larger vehicles such as a semi-tractor trailer truck, the trailer’s side-to-side motion caused by the passing truck will be minimized. Sway control is of such importance to trailer towing safety it should be mandatory. Reese or Equal-I-Zer hitch systems offer BOTH weight distribution and sway control features. Take the time to understand these two features and how you’ll include them into your truck and trailer.
The effects of a tag along trailer on the tow vehicle without weight distribution bars. In an extreme case the front wheels could lift off the pavement and the tow vehicle could lose control.
The same tag along trailer with weight distribution bars. The bars literally lift the hitch up which applies pressure onto the tow vehicle’s front tires.
A separate control arm is included between the trailer’s tongue and the hitch system. Some are friction based while others use a hydraulic cylinder. The effect is the same, it keeps the trailer straight.
Car Trailer Braking System
Braking systems used on larger two or three axle trailers should be researched and understood when selecting a trailer. The two most common types are Hydraulic and Electric. The purpose of the trailer’s braking system is to allow the trailer and its cargo to brake on its own and not rely solely on the tow vehicle for slowing or stopping. Hydraulic brakes are applied when the trailer senses movement at the hitch and that movement is translated to the hydraulic master cylinder, much like stepping on a brake pedal. The more movement (harder stop), the harder the master cylinder operates and the more the brakes are applied. Electric brakes are quite different. A separate control in the cab of the tow vehicle senses the electrical connection of the brake pedal and applies a regulated amount of electric current to the brakes on the trailer. Most electric brake controllers have easy adjustments for the driver to apply the right amount of braking when the brake pedal is depressed. If using electric brakes, investigate how the controller is installed and how it will be used. Starting in 2005, Ford offers a built-in brake controller system on larger pick-up vehicles such as the F-350 models. Other brands may offer a similar feature. Electric brakes also have a safety switch feature (lanyard cable) that applies a separate electric current from a small battery mounted on the trailer’s frame that engages in the event the trailer separates from the hitch and needs to stop on its own. Either system, when operating properly should stop the trailer evenly with the tow vehicle slows down.
Electric brake systems require a controller to adjust the amount of current when the brakes are applied. Many trucks now include this controller as a towing package.
Left Side Door
Having a left side “pass door” over the axles is a handy feature. It permits easy egress out of the vehicle once it is parked in the trailer rather than having to shimmy down the side and out the back. This is standard among some models and is worthwhile even if it must be ordered as an option.
Side view of a tag along trailer showing the convenience of a side door on the left side to exit the vehicle after it’s in the trailer.
Front Pass Door
A thin pass door on the front passenger side of the trailer is a necessity to gain access to the front of the vehicle to attach the hold down straps. Most manufacturers offer this as a standard feature.
Spare Tire
Where should you mount the trailer’s spare tire? Locating the spare in a hidden floor compartment saves space but can cause havoc if you need it and there is a car over it. Mounting it up front against a wall may take up valuable space. Be sure to give this some thought when ordering your trailer.
Electric Winch
Including an electric winch in your trailer is a good idea. Should your vehicle break down, the winch will be a great asset to pull the stalled vehicle into the trailer. When considering a winch, make sure 1) it is mounted to the frame (e.g. U bolts over the trailer’s frame or channel), and 2) run adequate cable (suggest 8 gauge or better) from the tow vehicle battery to a specialized two prong quick disconnect at the tow vehicle’s rear bumper to power the winch. A little hole opening in the trailer’s floor adjacent to the winch can be used to route the power cable out to the quick disconnect. The hole can be protected by a wooden or rubber cover when the winch is not in use. Another option for mounting the winch is to include a class 4 or class 5 hitch receiver in the design. The receiver is firmly mounted on the trailer’s floor and the winch with its square tubing slides into the receiver and secured by the same pin and clevis clip as a regular hitch. The advantage of this detachable winch version is that the winch can be used on the tow vehicle’s hitch receiver (trailer disconnected of course) if the situation arises. The electrical connection would be the same two prong heavy duty disconnect plug as if the winch were inside the trailer.
Car Trailer Tongue Jack
A trailer tongue jack is essential to lift the trailer’s tongue off and on to the hitch ball. Most tongue jacks are manual wind style, but where its mounted is especially important. A convenient location is right behind the trailer’s tongue. If the tongue jack is located on the outside of the frame rail with a swing up feature, it may interfere with the hitch’s weight distribution bars, forcing you to remove or reattach the jack each time the weight distribution bar is installed. An added convenience is an electric tongue jack and can be powered via the same two-prong quick disconnect electrical plug used for the winch. Pay extra care about height and location of the tongue jack that it does not interfere with any part of the tow vehicle such as the drop-down tail gate or door on pick-ups or SUV’s.
Tie Down System
Consider using a track tie-down system. Tracks are made with a heavy gauge metal cargo securing system that when used with track clips and straps, secures the vehicle to the trailer. Since track systems have multiple connection slots to place the clips, it permits holding the car more securely while in transit. The track system should be installed so it is connected to the trailer frame and not just the floor. And do not forget the track system clips/straps along with the regular 2-inch-wide Tie Down ratchet straps and special double ring straps that wrap around the suspension and axles.
A track system is a convenient method for securing the vehicle using ratchet tie straps.
Cargo and Tie-Down Straps
Always inspect straps prior to each use. Webbing that is cut, frayed or abraded should be replaced immediately. Never use any oils, solvents, acids, etc. on the webbing itself. When necessary, only lube the mechanical workings of a ratchet or cam buckle with a lightweight lube such as CRC Dry Film Lubricant or other Teflon based spray lubricant. Use only top-quality straps and webbing with UV protection. Sunlight is still a killer. When not in use, don’t leave your straps laying around on the deck of your trailer in the sunlight. Ideally, store them in a cool dry location. This will greatly prolong the life of your straps. Be careful of how your straps are routed. Avoid sharp edges or abrasive surfaces whenever possible. If this cannot be done, make sure you add some protection between the webbing and the surface in question. Cleaning your straps with warm, soapy water and a good scrub brush is the best method. Once the cleaning is complete, hang them up to air dry. Avoid cleansers with bleach or acid as these will weaken the webbing. Consider the method you use to tie down your vehicle using the ratchet straps. Straps that run in-line (straight front-to-back) would provide ample holding power front to back, but straps that also crisscross will provide extra side-to-side control.
Truck Side Mirrors
The mirrors on your tow vehicle are an important safety accessory. Using the driver and passenger side exterior mirrors provides the driver an instant perspective of the surroundings. The driver must learn to depend on mirrors and gauge where traffic is in relation to the trailer. The most common occurrence for mirrors is lane changes. Exterior mirrors on many of today’s tow vehicles simply pull out (extend) to accommodate the extra viewing area needed for seeing past or alongside the trailer.
Fire Extinguishers
Most enclosed car trailers have wooden floors and walls and carry vehicles that contain flammable liquids like gasoline. Carrying one or more properly rated fire extinguishers is a must. When deciding on where to mount fire extinguishers, accessibility should be a priority. Mounting them near one or more of the trailer doors is usually where many trailer owners located them.
Wheel Chocks
There are several wheel chocks available on the market today. Some are made of a plastic/rubber composite and have a simple wedge design. Others are made of metal and are mechanical in nature. Whenever a trailer is not hitched to a tow vehicle, some form of wheel chocks should be used to ensure the trailer does not move from its parking spot. Mechanical wheel chocks are available from local or on-line RV retail stores.
A metal wheel chock is located between the wheels to secure the trailer.
Jack Stands
When off-loading your collector car, the rear of the trailer must be supported even though it is still hitched to the tow vehicle. The use of screw adjusting jack stands will provide a snug fit between the ground and the trailer’s frame. It may be necessary to include a wooden plank if the ground is soft or likely to leave marks in the asphalt from the stands frame.
Trailer Maintenance
The trailer you are considering requires maintenance just as much as the vehicles themselves. Maintenance tasks include greasing suspension components, the hitch ball, and wheel bearings; checking tire pressures and their overall condition; cleaning electrical connections and checking lighting and electric brake operation. On the trailer’s exterior, lubricate door hinges and lock hasps. Be sure to look for moldings and trim that may have worked loose.
Finally
When using a car trailer, it is vital to ensure that your towing vehicle is equipped with the appropriate towing package, including a hitch, and wiring for lights and brakes if applicable. Additionally, safe loading and security practices are essential to prevent accidents during transport. Always follow local laws and safety guidelines when using a car trailer.
