Restoration Tools Basics for Classic Car

The first-time DIY classic car restorer is faced with a bewildering array of tools that they may need. A complete inventory of restoration tools would be expensive and confusing, but the good news is you do not need every tool made for every project. There is a wide array of specialty tools to go along with the basic tools any at home mechanic may need; the best solution is to just focus on the restoration tools basics you do need for the job at hand. When purchasing tools, it is highly recommended to buy quality tools, and not rely on the discounted and off brand names as all tools will break; but to reduce you chance of breaking a body part the reliable quality is a must. It is also nice to get the lifetime warranty so that when you shell out the dollars you will not have to do it twice or more for the same tool.

Hand Tools

Always buy the best hand tools you can afford – they reduce fatigue and last a lifetime. Quality tools will be kept and used for generations to come.

Hand Tools Needed for Automotive Repair

Chances are you already have some basic hand tools. For automotive repair and classic car restoration, these should include the following:

Screwdriver Set
Box End/Open End Wrenches from 1/4″ to 1″
Combination Wrenches 7/16″ to 1″
Combination Wrenches in Metric

Ratchets and Sockets

Since 3/8″ ratchets are fairly cheap and last nearly forever, and a set of ½” sockets are helpful for the larger and tighter bolts. In 3/8” sockets it is wise to have from 3/8” to 1” standard, or 9mm to 17mm depending on the type of classic car you are working on. In ½” sockets 7/16” to 1” or 14mm to 30mm sockets should do most of your work. It is good to have deep well sockets as well as extensions and swivels.

Ratchet Sizes and Handle Length

Hand ratchets are made in 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, 3/4″ and 1″ drive. For DIY household and classic car repair, 3/8″ is by far the most common.

Flexible vs Fixed Head Ratchet

Hand ratchets can have a fixed head or a swiveling flex-head. This helps access hard-to-reach fasteners. By design, they are not as strong as conventional ratchets and are known to break.

Depending on your preference, ratchets can be either pear-headed and round-headed. They are available in different lengths (stubby, standard, and long), and handles can be plain or padded.

1/2″ Ratchets

Although 3/8″ drive ratchets are the most common when working on cars and light-duty trucks, they will be times when you need more torque to remove stubborn bolts, suspension components, etc. An example would be loosening wheel lug nuts that are torqued to 100+ foot/pounds. For extremely tight bolts you need a 1/2″ breaker bar.

Torque Wrench (Foot-Pounds)

For those who have not used a click-style torque wrench before, you set the desired value on the handle scale (in inch-pounds or Newton meters) then begin tightening the fastener. When the preset torque value is reached, the wrench will emit a “click” that will be heard and felt.

A 1/2″ drive torque wrench will generally cover your needs up to 150 foot/pounds. It is recommended to torque bolts in increments; example, first pass 20 ft/lbs., then 40 ft/lbs., then 60 ft/lbs., etc. until desired torque value is reached.

Stay away from beam-style torque wrenches. Most are inaccurate, and all of them hard to read while you are using it.

Torque Wrench (Inch-Pounds)

On the lower end of the scale are 1/4″ drive torque wrenches. These are nice to have for things like timing cover bolts, which everybody seems to overtighten!

Channellock Pliers

Founded in 1886, Channellock still manufactures pliers and hand tools in the U.S.A. (Meadville, Pennsylvania).

I bought this trio of Channellock pliers over 30 years ago. The set includes 12″, 9.5″, and 6.5″ slip-joint pliers. They see constant use, not only in the garage, but around the house as well.

Misc. Hand Tools

Needle-Nose Pliers, several different lengths
Allen Keys (hex wrenches), metric and standard
Vice-Grips, several different sizes
Hammers
Pry Bars (12″ to 18″)

Flare Nut Wrenches

To prevent stripped nuts on power steering hoses and transmission lines, use flair nut wrenches to loosen and tighten the ends. An open-end wrench can be used to speed up the process in between loosening and tightening.

Hand Tools – Use and Abuse

You should care for your tools and effectively use them. I have broken more tools than I care to admit, but admittedly from misuse and frustration.

Air Tools

Air tools deliver higher torque and are more powerful than traditional hand tools or electric-powered tools. They will dramatically decrease the amount of time and energy needed to finish your project car. If you can afford a good quality compressor and air hose the added ease of air tools will help your project schedule.

Air Cut-off Tool: You can use tinsnips to cut sheet metal, or you can use a hack saw, but an air-powered cut-off wheel (a.k.a. whiz-wheel) is much, much faster.

While cutting, slowly slice along a marked-offline with the cut-off wheel, letting the air tool do the work. Do not force it to cut faster, as that will overheat the tool and the metal. It is many uses also includes cutting off rusty bolts and muffler clamps.

Air Die Grinder: A die grinder has dozens of uses, including grinding rusty metal down to clean metal quickly. Both 2″ or 3″ pads and discs are common, and dozens of attachments are available. By changing the arbor on your die-grinder, it can serve as a cut-off wheel.

Die grinders come in either straight or right-angle and seem to have the shortest lifespan of air tools. I recommend having one of each.

Dual-Action Palm Sander: The D/A, or dual-action sander, is small and light and works at low RPMs. They have a dual orbital motion that helps prevent scratching. Its primary use is to “feather”, or fan out, the area around a panel repair. 150 or 220-grit sandpaper is commonly used. When using a D/A sander, keep it flat to the surface and do not press down too hard. Let the sander do the work as well as other autobody tools.

Air Sander: Good quality air sanders have more power than electric sanders and have a smoother action that will not fatigue your hands as quickly.

Because they work at higher RPMs without the orbital motion of a D/A sander, air sanders make quick work of paint removal and grinding down welds. Caution: they can also warp/damage sheet metal, so they need to be used with finesse.

Air Drill: An air drill enables you to drill holes in metal without running out of power or getting the drill hot. Be careful though, air drills run so fast that you may have a hard time starting a pilot hole.

Air Hammer: The lifesaver, the miracle worker, the old “Billy Barcoo”. I bought this air hammer somewhere back in the nineties and continues to get me out of more jams than any other air tool.

An air hammer’s many uses include separating spot-welded body panels, removing tie rods from center links, and vibrating the heck out of stubborn nuts and bolts until they separate. Having an assortment of chisel heads makes them invaluable for automotive restoration.

Air Ratchet & Impact Gun: If you need to disassemble an entire motor quickly, you need an air ratchet. Impact guns can only fit in so many places, but air ratchets fit in a lot more.

To me, the smaller 1/4″ air ratchet is most useful. Not only will it fit into places hand ratchets cannot, but it also delivers the necessary torque to remove that stubborn nut or bolt.

Air Reciprocating Saw: Unlike a Sawzall or Porta band, an air saw is not an ideal cut-off tool. It is primarily for sheet metal but can be used to cut off stubborn bolts. However, an air saw is much more compact than a Sawzall or Porta band, so it is great for close quarters, such as cutting out a rusty floorboard. They are also ideal for fiberglass, carbon fiber, and small detail cuts.

When fitted with fine-tooth blades, an air saw will make exceptionally fine, clean cuts. It also removes less material than a cut-off wheel.

Air Blow Gun: The many uses of an air blowgun include cleaning fuel lines, blowing away filings and metal chips, cleaning spark plugs, etc. I use mine quite often for drying metal panels and parts before painting. Get one with a rubber tip, it will prevent you from accidentally scratching something.

Cutting Sheet Metal

Tin snips are the most economical way of cutting sheet metal patches and panels. They are available in straight, left-hand, and right-hand versions.

Hand-held nibblers also work well on small panels, but electric shears will save time on large or multiple panels.

Tap and Die Set

Going together with torque wrench is a tap and die set. Why? Because you cannot correctly torque down bolts if threads are dirty – you will get a false reading. If you are rebuilding an old engine that has been neglected, I would rate a tap and die set as a necessity.

Aside from cleaning threads, taps and dies can also make threads. With proper technique and lubricant, they will cut mild carbon and alloy steel, cast iron, aluminum, brass, and bronze.

Garage Shop Equipment

I have two different pairs of jack stands, which come in handy because I do not always need four, and two are taller than the other pair. The pairs should match each other and used together for supporting the vehicle.

Jack Stands vs Ramps

For DIY oil changes, car ramps seem to be more popular than jack stands. Personally, I prefer jacks stands over ramps. I use a floor jack at the proper factory lift points, then place jack stands as close to the jack as possible.

Always Use Jack Stands When Working Under A Car

A good quality hydraulic floor jack will give you decades of use, and much safer in its operation.

Portable Work Stand

When you are working on a large body part like a hood or a fender, you need a safe and stable place to set it down on. That is what portable work stands are for.

I bought one of these years ago, and it is helped me repair doors, bumpers, hoods, and fenders. When not in use, it folds up flat and can be stored out of the way.

Slide Hammer

The many uses for a slide hammer include pulling out dents and removing rear axles. The tool has a long round shaft with a sliding hammer weight, to produce force without striking the panel.

I originally purchased my slide hammer for body work, but it has seen many other uses, such as removing stubborn bearings and seals. The picture above shows a slide hammer with special attachment for removing cam bushings from an engine side cover.

Digital Camera

Taking pictures before and after is extremely helpful during re-assembly. A digital camera is nice to have, but a smart phone works just as well.

Kneeling Pad & Creeper:

Kneeling on a concrete floor or wet ground gets uncomfortable after a few minutes. There is enough padding in this kneeling pad to cushion a 175+ pound size person. I also use it as a butt pad.

Other supplies needed for classic car restoration include shop towels or rags, hand cleaner, and aerosol penetrants. A couple of good work-lights on tall stands and short stands, and clamps to hold them.

These are just the restoration tools basics for classic automotive repair, as you will find there are specialty tools for various components you will need as you go so as I have done over the years, I buy tools as I go and as I need for each project. We will discuss in future posts more tools needed for engine rebuilding and body work.