Robert Scholem, Author at Classic Auto Advisors

Resurrection of the 69 Cadillac – Sees Daylight

Robert Scholem — Mon, 23 Aug 2021 13:00:00 +0000

At the beginning of June, the story of the ’69 Cadillac was posted on the blog telling the history of the old Fleetwood. For almost 18 years the car rested in a garage untouched and unfortunately uncared for. It has been the desire to get this car out of the garage and into the outdoors so that it sees daylight after many years.

To be honest the task of getting the car out of the garage seemed overwhelming and while I had the best of intentions, something always came up to convince me to push it off for another weekend. Bob and I looked at the situation and with some encouragement from Bob we planned to move the car, and then enjoy the sight as it first sees daylight.

Since the car had been placed on dollies many years ago, the issue of moving the car from side to side was already taken care of. So, we made room to move the Cadillac to the middle of the garage. The big question was would it roll on its own tires or were we going to be dependent on the dollies alone. Many times, after a car has been sitting for an extended period, the brakes seize up and the wheels will not turn. This is just another potential obstacle in our way and another example of what happens to a car that has been neglected and left idle.

To determine whether the wheels would turn we jacked up each corner of the car and rotated the wheel to ensure that it was free, and the car would roll. Fortunately, there were no issues with seized brakes, so we were on to the next step.

A car cannot not roll very well on tires with little air. So, we added air to all the tires. It was not only interesting that each tire still had some air, but it was even more interesting that each tire had the same 14 lbs. of air pressure. Tires losing air over time is very common, it is also common to have those tires refuse to hold air once deflated. This was not the case with the Cadillac (Mrs. Edna). The tires were one of the newest items on the car, as I aspired of moving the car 10 or so years ago so I put four new tires on the car but never did anything past that.

The car was moved to the center of the garage on the dollies, the wheels freely spinning, and the tires filled with air we began to plan to push the car out of the garage. At this point, we were no longer in need of the dollies. Once again jacked the car up and removed the dollies for all for wheels.

With the car in neutral it was pushed the car out of the garage and into the driveway. As the car began to roll, it was necessary to periodically tap the brakes to keep the car from picking up too much speed. There was always a fear that if this heavy got away on us, the two of us would not be able to stop it on our own. The brakes were pressed with much hesitation, as there is always the fear that they would not work or equally as important, we would press the brake pedal and the brakes would lock up leaving the car immobile.

The was rolled out perfectly and was situated in the middle of the driveway just right to be loaded up as it sees daylight for the first time in years and brought back to my house to rest. As we begin to take steps to not just get her out of the garage but to get the car running and driving on her own.

The car arrived back at my home and the tow truck driver was able to place the car perfectly in a space where the car would reside for the next few months. Once the dust settled, the car was given a quick wash or two so that it could be covered until the next steps.

While we have walked around the car for the next steps in the revival of the ’69 Cadillac at this point the car was covered up until the next free weekend when we will work on getting her started.

Jamie Pappas

The post Resurrection of the 69 Cadillac – Sees Daylight appeared first on Classic Auto Advisors.

Plugging A Leaking Tire

Robert Scholem — Mon, 28 Jun 2021 13:00:00 +0000

So, you walk out to your classic car, and something just does not look right. Your car is leaning to one side and as you walk around you discover one of your tires is flat. Maybe you are lucky, and it is in your own driveway or maybe you have prepared for just this instance and you are ready to start plugging a leaking tire.

The first thing you will need to do is determine if your tire is worthy of being plugged. Where and how badly your tire is damaged will determine whether or not plugging it is a viable solution.

As a rule of thumb, you do not want to plug a tire too close to the side wall, as the side wall flexes on turns and may result in the failure of your plug or worse a blowout. Typically, you only want to plug a tire within the treads of the tire and even then, you do not want to be too close to the side wall even if it is within the last row of treads.
Next you want to determine if the damage to the tire is even able to be plugged, while I have seen people put several tire plug cords in one hole, it is certainly not advisable. Not as a permanent fix, anyway. There are also limits as too how many plugs one should be put in a single tire even if they are not in the same repair.

However, even after the assess the situation, if you are in the middle of nowhere with no cell service and no spare tire, your only choice may be to plug the tire, drive slowly and make it to safer location where you can properly address the damaged tire.

So, you have assessed the situation, it is a simple puncture in the center of the tread, and you have decided to plug the tire. You will need the following tools and items:

Pliers (to remove the debris)
Reaming Tool (to clean out the hole)
Repair Cords (to plug the hole)
Cord Insertion Tool (to insert the Cord)
Air Pump (to reinflate the tire)

There are many different tire repair kits on the market and available at your local auto parts store or even Home Depot.

Steps in Plugging a Tire:

Remove debris from tire using the pliers. Note: Residual air will escape once the object has been removed.

2. If available, apply lubricant to the Reaming Tool. The lubricant helps to keep the belts separated and allows for easier insertion of the repair cords in Step 4.

3. Insert the reaming tool into the puncture hole and push while rotating the handle of the reaming tool. It may be necessary to re-inflate or add air to the tire in order to help with this step and Step 4.

4. Thread the repair cord through the eye of the insertion tool until equal parts are on either side of the tool. If available, you may also add lubricant to the tip to make insertion easier but, but it is certainly not necessary.

5. Firmly push the insertion tool and cord into the tire until the sleeve of the insertion tool is full against tire. NOTE: A small amount of cord should still be visible.

6. To remove the tool, hold down the sleeve firmly against the tire and pull up on the handle. NOTE: do not twist the handle. Trim the excess cord with a razor blade.

7. Re-inflate the tire using a suitable compressor to the recommended tire pressure and check for leaks.

Plugging a leaking tire on your own is much simpler than one would think, and can be done anywhere provided you have the right tools and a compressor in order to reinflate the tire during or after repairs.

While these repairs are intended to be permanent, it is recommended that the repair is checked regularly and that you have the tire professionally checks and repaired as soon as possible, if necessary.

Jamie Pappas

The post Plugging A Leaking Tire appeared first on Classic Auto Advisors.

The Four Stroke Engine-How Does It Work

Robert Scholem — Wed, 16 Jun 2021 13:00:00 +0000

When we look at the history of the automobile, we could go back as far as 1769 Frebuinch Engineer Nicolas Joseph Cugnot produced a steam-powered tricycle that went about two miles an hour, but many will argue that this was not an automobile. Lets look into where the two stroke and four stroke engine come from.

Many argue that the first true automobile was gas-powered and for that the look to two German inventors, who ironically filed patents on the same day in 1886 in two separate cities and had never met before. The two men were Karl Friedrich Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. Karl Benz was the first to combine an internal combustion engine with a three wheeled integrated chassis. Gottlieb Daimler motorized carriage which he invented with Wilhelm Maybach was the first four-wheeled automobile and featured the first high-speed gasoline engine.

If one is to argue that the first true automobile was gas-powered it is important to know when the first gasoline powered engine was produced and just as important how it works.

A salesman by the name of Nicolaus August Otto learned of an internal combustion engine that was built in 1860 by Jean Joseph Etienne Lenoir. This engine which drew its power by igniting gas made from coal. While testing the engine Otto discovered the effects of compressing the fuel at the time of igniting. This was the birth of the Otto Cycle or better the four-stroke engine.

In 1864, Nicolaus Otto and Eugen Langen opened the first internal combustion engine production company. The factory ran out of space and was moved to the town of Deutz, Germany in 1869, where the company was renamed, The Deutz Gas Engine Manufacturing Company. In 1872, Gottlieb Daimler was technical director and Wilhelm Maybach was the head of engine design. Daimler was a gunsmith who had worked on the Lenoir engine. By 1876, Otto and Langen succeeded in creating the first internal combustion engine that compressed the fuel mixture prior to combustion for far higher efficiency than any engine created to this time.

Daimler and Maybach left their employ at the engine factory and developed the first high-speed Otto engine in 1883. In 1885, they produced the first automobile to be equipped with an Otto engine. The Daimler Reitwagen used a hot-tube ignition system and the fuel known as Ligroin to become the world’s first vehicle powered by an internal combustion engine. It used the four-stroke engine based on Otto’s design. The following year, Karle Benz produced a four-stroke engine automobile that is regarded as the first car.

In 1884, Otto’s company, then known as developed electric ignition and the carburetor. In 1890, Daimler and Maybach formed a company known as Daimler Motoren Gesellschaft. Eventually this company became the Daimler-Benz we know of today.

Now that we hit a little upon the history of the automobile and the start of the internal combustion engine, it is time to go through the “Otto Cycle” or how what the four strokes of the internal combustion engine are.

A four-stroke engine (also four-cycle) is an engine in which the piston completes four separate strokes while turning the crankshaft. A stroke refers to the full travel of the piston along the cylinder, in either direction. The four separate strokes are termed:

Intake: Also known as induction or suction. This stroke of the piston begins at top dead center (T.D.C.) and ends at bottom dead center (B.D.C.). In this stroke the intake valve must be in the open position while the piston pulls an air-fuel mixture into the cylinder by producing vacuum pressure into the cylinder through its downward motion. The piston is moving down as air is being sucked in by the downward motion against the piston.

2. Compression: This stroke begins at B.D.C, or just at the end of the suction stroke, and ends at T.D.C. In this stroke the piston compresses the air-fuel mixture in preparation for ignition during the power stroke (below). Both the intake and exhaust valves are closed during this stage.

3. Combustion: Also known as power or ignition. This is the start of the second revolution of the four-stroke cycle. At this point the crankshaft has completed a full 360-degree revolution. While the piston is at T.D.C. (the end of the compression stroke) the compressed air-fuel mixture is ignited by a spark plug (in a gasoline engine) or by heat generated by high compression (diesel engines), forcefully returning the piston to B.D.C. This stroke produces mechanical work from the engine to turn the crankshaft.

4. Exhaust: Also known as outlet. During the exhaust stroke, the piston, once again, returns from B.D.C. to T.D.C. while the exhaust valve is open. This action expels the spent air-fuel mixture through the exhaust valve.

Advantages and Disadvantages of a Four-Stroke Engine

When talking of internal combustion engines, the four stroke is not the only design. Much of what we have described above can be achieved in only two stokes. So, if you can achieve a similar outcome in two strokes is the four-stoke engine truly the most efficient. Below we list the advantages and disadvantages of both the four-stroke engine, as compared to the two-stroke engine.

Advantages of the Four-Stroke Engine

More torque: In general, four-stroke engines always make extra torque as compared to a two-stroke engine at low RPM. Although two-stroke engines provide higher torque at higher RPM.
More fuel efficiency: four-stroke engines have greater fuel efficiency than a two-stroke engine because fuel is consumed once every 4 strokes.
Less pollution: As power is generated once every 4 strokes & no oil or lubricant is added to the fuel; 4 stroke engine produces less pollution.
More durability: We all know that the more an engine runs, quicker it wears out. Two-stroke engines are designed for high RPM. If an engine can go for 10000 rpm’s before it wears out; a four-stroke engine with 100 rpm will run for 100 minutes while a two-stroke engine which has a higher rpm of 500 will run for only 20 minutes.
No extra addition of oil: Only the moving parts need lubrication intermediately. So as mentioned above, no extra oil or lubricant is added to fuel.

Disadvantages of Four-Stroke Engine

Complicated design: A four-stroke engine has complex valve mechanisms operated & controlled by gears & a chain. Also, there are many parts to worry about which makes it harder to troubleshoot.
Less powerful: As power gets delivered once every 2 rotations of crankshaft (4 strokes), hence the four-stroke is less powerful.
Expensive: A four-stroke engine has considerably more parts than two-stroke engines. So, they often require repairs which leads to greater expense.

So, depending on use, different engines are best designed for different uses. However, when we talk about the automobile, nothing has been able to truly replace a four-stroke engine.

Jamie Pappas

The post The Four Stroke Engine-How Does It Work appeared first on Classic Auto Advisors.

The Resurrection of the 1969 Cadillac-Part I

Robert Scholem — Mon, 31 May 2021 13:00:00 +0000

Time goes by so fast sometimes faster than we realize. I cannot tell you how many times I have seen a picture or talked of a memorable event, only to realize the event did not occur two years ago but actually happened three, four or even five years ago. I am sure many of you have also walked away from a project, such as an old car, expecting to return but before you know it several years have gone by. Well, that is exactly where I find myself and my 1969 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham today. The only difference is it has not been several years but over 18 years since I had my 1969 Cadillac out and running so I started to the about the resurrection of the classic car.

I have owned numerous old cars since then, but would never part with the old Cadillac, a gift from an elderly aunt to me and my father when I was sixteen years old. I can still remember that Cadillac hanging over the end of that flatbed truck as we transported it from my Aunt’s family farm in Lincoln Park, New Jersey to my parent’s home in Dix Hills, New York.

The history of the car was what I loved most about it. My Aunt Edna owned the car with her first husband, George, but at the time did not know how to drive. In that era, it was pretty common for the husband to do all the driving, and the need to learn herself just was not there. When George passed away, Aunt Edna took it upon herself to learn to drive in that very Cadillac. Still living on the farm that her father bought in the early 1900s, she learned to drive that car in the fields behind the house before venturing out onto the roads. She was in her mid-60s when she taught herself how to drive.

Once Edna learned to drive, it was time to replace the Cadillac with a, new at the time, 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham in the same exact color, as navy blue is the only color that would do for her. The 1969 Fleetwood was parked in the barn and each week she would go out and start it up and dust it inside and out. She certainly made it a point to tell how much effort went into keeping the interior clean even while it was being stored in an old barn.

My father always loved a Cadillac and he especially loved the 1969 Fleetwood, so when my Aunt offered to give me the car when I turned 16, he was equally excited.

The interior of the car was perfect, and the exterior was in good condition, with the exception of a small spot of rust on the bottom corner of the back window. Not knowing the value of a “survivor” car at the time, we made plans to have the car re-sprayed in an updated version of the same blue.

The car was beautiful and while not the most desirable car for teenage a boy to drive, I loved it. The feeling I got when I floated down the road, as if on a cloud, was irreplaceable.

The car was used only sunny days and for local cruises for the next 15 or so years.

So where is that 1969 Cadillac today?

My Dad passed away in 1999, and shortly after I bought my first home, got married and had my first child. Unfortunately, with these life changes, both the desire and time to go through the “trouble” of uncovering the old Cadillac and taking it out on a cruise were not there.

It was about 2003 when I backed the Fleetwood into the garage at my parent’s home and that is where it has sat ever since.

So, what happens to a car that has sat for any period of time without being used. Well, the hope is that, with the warmer weather, we will find out. It is my intention to resurrect that old 1969 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham and give it the attention it deserves.

While we are on the topic of a car sitting idle, do not think it takes years for a car that has been left idle to begin to show signs of its lack of use. The reality is it only takes about 6 months to begin to see the effects of neglect.

Letting your classic car sit for any extended period of time can result in a number of problems but there are ways of preventing them.

If possible, it is always good to take a car on a short drive at least once a month. The drive does not need to be long, but I believe between 15 minutes and a half hour. This not only helps to keep the battery charged but allows the fuel and oil to circulate, as well as it ensures the tires are not sitting in one place for too long. However, if it is not possible to take the car out for a quick drive to keep things lubricated and running right, the following are steps you can take to help ensure the car is ready to drive.

While flat spots on tires are not as common with modern tires, it can still happen and it definitely something to address with bias ply tires on that old classic. Flat spots occur when the weight of the car is sitting on the same spot of a tire for an extended period of time. There are a number of ways to prevent this from occurring.

Many people place the car on jack stands in all four corners, taking the weight of the vehicle off the tires altogether. This certainly helps prevent the tires from developing flat spots. However, if you are concerned about leaving the car up on jack stands for an extended period of time, you can opt to place an old set of tires on the car putting the regular tires in storage until you are ready to take the car out for a spin. This requires considerably more work and may require you to think about how long the car will actually be stored.

Finally, while I have not used this method myself, I have heard of people putting Styrofoam or cushions under the tires to better disburse the weight of the vehicle. This may be the best option if you are unsure of how long the car will actually sit and you intend to take it out for a quick drive sooner rather than later.

Another issue with leaving a car in storage for a long period of time results in the car battery going dead. All cars regardless of age have a small amount of parasitic draw and over time this will ultimately cause the battery to go dead. This can be prevented by attaching a trickle charger to the battery in order to cycle the battery and prevent this parasitic draw from draining the battery. While the use of a trickle charge helps to maintain a healthy battery; if you do not own a trickle charger you can simply disconnect the battery.

The next problem you must contend with when leaving a car, unused for an extended period of time is both rust forming in the gas tank itself and the gas degrading and ultimately becoming “varnish”. The best way to avoid this from happening, aside from draining all fuel from the tank, is to use a fuel system stabilizer. Adding a stabilizer in the fuel system will help to prevent rust and degradation of both the fuel and the system in general.

Finally, depending on where you live and the place where the car will be stored you will have to consider mice, rats or other rodents from making a home inside your vehicle. Believe it or not it does not take long, especially during the colder months for a rodent to figure out that an engine compartment or the cushion of a car seat is a great place to start a family. For instance, I had decorated the front of my home with corn stalks for Halloween and when I opened up the hood of my son’s jeep that had only been parked for two weeks, I discovered a battery tray filled with corn. I also learned to get to the battery tray, the critter had chewed through a few wires in the wiring harness. Fortunately, I was able to change that section of the harness, and all turned out okay. I have heard of many people chasing electrical problems that ultimately ended up being damage caused by a rodent chewing on wires in the engine compartment.

In addition to putting steel wool in some of the holes where a critter might enter, there are also sprays on the market to discourage rodents from entering the vehicle or you can always put some moth balls throughout the vehicle in order to keep unwanted critters away.

Letting a car sit for an extended period of time is never a good thing because cars want to be driven. I am looking forward to bringing you along as I resurrect my 1969 Cadillac and hopefully, get her back out on the road by this Summer.

Stay tuned as we get this survivor back on the road again.

Jamie Pappas

The post The Resurrection of the 1969 Cadillac-Part I appeared first on Classic Auto Advisors.

Replacing A Mechanical Fuel Pump

Robert Scholem — Mon, 10 May 2021 13:00:00 +0000

So, you walked out to your classic car turned the key and while the car turns over, it just will not start; and maybe in need of replacing a fuel pump. For a combustion engine to run, it is in need of four things. These include the following:

Air
Fuel
Compression
Spark

If any of these items are missing the car will not run.

These elements are all part of the Otto Cycle. If this is the case, then something is missing from the equation. The first person to build a working four-stroke engine, a stationary engine using a coal gas-air mixture for fuel (a gas engine), was German engineer Nicolaus Otto. This is why the four-stroke principle today is commonly known as the Otto cycle and four-stroke engines using spark plugs often are called Otto engines.

In a future blog we will address the four cycles of the modern combustion engine, but right now we will discuss the second element in the above list and work at getting you classic car back on the road.

How does a mechanical Fuel Pump Work?

A mechanical fuel pump is driven by the camshaft, or by special shaft driven by the camshaft. As the shaft turns, a cam passes under a pivoted lever and forces it up at one end.

The other end of the lever is linked loosely to a rubber diaphragm forming the floor of a chamber in the pump, goes down and pulls the diaphragm with it.

When the lever pulls the diaphragm down, it creates a suction that draws fuel along the fuel line into the pump through a one-way valve.

As the revolving cam turns further, so that it no longer presses on the lever, the lever is moved back by a return spring, relaxing its pull on the diaphragm.

The loosely linked lever does not push the diaphragm up, but there is a return spring that pushes against it.

The diaphragm can move up only by pushing the fuel from the chamber. Since the fuel cannot exit through the one-way valve in entered through above, it exits through another one-way valve and it pushed up to the carburetor.

How to Change a Mechanical Fuel Pump

Replacing a fuel pump can be a messy job, so be sure you are dressed appropriately. Do not be nervous though it is relatively easy you just want to stay organized and make sure you have all the necessary tools ready for the job. You will need the following common tools:

Ratchet wrench set with universal joint.
Tubing or open-end wrenches
Hose clamp pliers or screwdriver
Bolt or wooden dowel
Shop rags
Gasket sealer
Fire extinguisher rated for gasoline fires (This is just a precaution and good to have around any shop or garage. It is always best to be prepared.)

Remember, you will be working around fuel and fuel vapors, so be sure that your workspace is well ventilated. Do not smoke, use an open flame, or do anything that may cause sparks or otherwise present a safety hazard.

Replacing A Fuel Pump

Once you have gathered your tools, turned off your vehicle, and made sure you are working in a safe area, you can begin working. First, you will need to remove the old fuel pump in this order:

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the fuel tank hose at the fuel pump and plug the hose with a bolt or wooden dowel to keep any fuel from flowing out. Also, disconnect the vapor-return hose if the vehicle is equipped with one. Be sure to wipe up any gas that spills.

The fuel pump is generally located on the front passenger side of the engine. However, in the photo below you will see it is located on the front driver’s side, as the fuel pump that was being replaced was on a1964 Pontiac Lemans with a 326 Cu.In. V8.

Carefully examine the old fuel hose; if it is frayed or cracked, replace it with new fuel line hose.
Disconnect the outlet line to the carburetor. Use a wrench on the fuel pump fitting and another on the line nut.
Remove the two attaching bolts and extract the old fuel pump. Clean off any old gasket material from the mounting surface of the engine using a shop rag.

Once the old fuel pump has been removed, it is a good idea to compare the old unit with the new just to make sure they are compatible and all the holes line up.

So, they are a match! It’s time to prep and install the new unit in this order:

Apply a coat of gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket. Put the attaching bolts through the new pump and slip the gasket over the bolts.
Install the new pump on the engine. Make sure that push rod is correctly installed in both the engine and the fuel pump. If the push rod slides out, you can pack it with some heavy grease to hold it in place while you install the pump.
Attach the fuel outlet line that runs to the carburetor. If it’s difficult to connect, remove the other end of the line from the carburetor. Connect the line to the fuel pump, and then reattach the other end to the carburetor. Use a wrench to hold the fuel pump fitting and tighten the line nut with another wrench.
Attach the fuel inlet hose from the gas tank and the vapor-return hose. Tighten all clamps.
Reconnect the battery ground cable, start the vehicle, and check for leaks.

Once you have inspected your work and made sure it is free of leaks, your vehicle is good to go. Unless of course it still does not start, in which case it is time to look at some of the elements like compression or more likely spark.

Jamie Pappas

The post Replacing A Mechanical Fuel Pump appeared first on Classic Auto Advisors.

Carburetor vs Fuel Injection: Understanding the Pros and Cons

Robert Scholem — Mon, 16 Nov 2020 13:00:00 +0000

Which offers the best performance, carburetor vs fuel injection, is highly debated question among car enthusiasts. Many believe that performance is best with a carburetor while others insist that the only way to go is with fuel injected gasoline. To determine which is best for your vehicle, it is important to understand how both components work.

To start any conversation on carburetor vs fuel injection, one has to think back to the very beginning of the internal combustion engine. Since the dawn of the internal combustion engine, we have needed a way to get air and fuel into the cylinder, where it could be ignited and thus give us usable mechanical energy. Some of the first engines relied on a simple fuel drip, but better ways of introducing fuel into the cylinder would eventually come along.

HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE

Early carburetors relied on air flowing over liquid fuel or a wick, gathering fuel vapors for ignition. Later versions would utilize the Bernoulli principle to better meter the amount of fuel going into the cylinders, that is, the air flowing through a venturi would deliver fuel in proportion to the amount of air going into the intake. By the time the last carbureted vehicles in the US died out, in the early 1990s, fuel injection was already in full force.

Fuel injection as we know it actually has its roots as far back as the first engines, back in the 1880s; however, its complexity prevented it from being utilized on any scale until the 1920s, and it was still limited to compression-ignition diesel engines. Later, in the mid-1950s fuel injection systems would appear on both diesel and gasoline engines, in both mechanical and electronic versions.

The first electronic fuel injection systems, using a throttle-body injector, simply replaced the carburetor. Port fuel injection placed individual fuel injectors closer to each intake valve, which powers most modern automobiles. Later, like diesel engines, some gasoline engines would be fitted with direct fuel injection, which puts fuel directly into the cylinder. Some direct fuel injection systems co-exist with port fuel injection systems.

Engine Performance

The carburetor vs fuel injection performance is mainly due to the amount of air and gasoline that can enter the engine cylinders. The cylinders contain the pistons and combustion chambers where energy is released from the combustion of gasoline. The carburetor and fuel injection system will both feed fuel and air into the engine.

The Carburetor

The carburetor contains jets that will push the gas into the combustion chambers. The amount of fuel that can flow through these jets depends completely on the amount of air that can be pulled into the carburetor venture. The main issue with obtaining the best performance using a carburetor is that it cannot monitor the air to fuel ratio for each individual cylinder. If there was a carburetor for each cylinder, then this would not be an issue. So, with a carburetor, the best fuel to air ratio for each cylinder is approximated for the best performance. However, carburetors do last longer than fuel injection systems and are favored in motor sports. Carburetors are also much simpler to install than fuel injection systems because there are no electrical components or return lines to the fuel tank. The carburetor is currently much less expensive than the electronic fuel injection systems.

Carburetors meter fuel into the engine by using a physic phenomenon called the Vacuum Venturi Effect. When you give the vehicle more throttle, more air is forced through the venturi tube (a tube design that become narrow, increasing the speed of the air flowing through it) in the carburetor. This draws additional fuel into the engine.

As a vehicle ages it may develop vacuum air leaks from the many vacuum lines used in the engine compartment. These leaks cause additional air to be drawn into the intake manifold, changing the fuel/air mixture from the right blend of fuel and air to more of a lean mixture – too much air, not enough fuel. Any time you add additional air to the intake system with the same amount of fuel as before, it results in an extremely high combustion chamber temperature – a temperature increase, if you will.

Now, for several years before the industry went predominantly to fuel injection, they did have what is called “feedback carburetors” which were computer controlled. These carburetors had the same ability to control the air/fuel ratio but were not as efficient as fuel injection. But carburetors traditionally have had the issues listed above.

Fuel Injection Systems

Fuel injection systems are becoming more popular for those wanting the best performance from their engines. There are two different versions of fuel injection – port fuel injection and direct injection. Port fuel injection is the most used and direct fuel injection is the latest developed fuel injection system. This system was designed specifically for four or two stoke engines. The main benefits to using direct injection is that the amount of fuel and air can be perfectly released and then injected into the cylinder according to the engine load conditions. The electronics used in the system will calculate this information and constantly adjust. This type of controlled fuel injection results in a higher power output, greater fuel efficiency and much lower emissions. One of the main issues is that these systems are sophisticated and will cost much more than a carburetor. Installation is more complicated as it uses an electrical component and custom cylinder head configuration.

Computer-controlled, electronic fuel injection systems consist of a computer, an oxygen sensor, a set of fuel injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, and an electric fuel pump. The oxygen sensor reads the air/fuel mixture in the exhaust and produces a voltage reading. Keep in mind that a rich air/fuel mixture (too much fuel, not enough air) has a lower combustion temperature and a lean air/fuel mixture (not enough fuel, too much air) has a hotter combustion temperature. The oxygen sensor can generate voltage from 0 to 1,000 millivolts. Anything over 500 millivolts is a rich mixture and anything below 500 millivolts is a lean mixture, whereas 500 milli bolts is “just right”. The computer’s mission is to keep the voltage around 500 millivolts – the reading you get when the air/fuel mixture is equal to the idea mix of a 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio. This is called the stoichiometric ratio and is what the catalytic converter needs to perform its job at peak efficiency.

What does the computer do to keep the ratios at their best? The computer does this by extending or shortening the length of time fuel injectors are held open. If the computer sees voltage below 500 millivolts (remember, lean mixture) it will hold the injector open longer to richen the air/fuel mixture to get back to the 500-millivolt reading. If the computer sees a voltage reading above the 500 millivolts (remember, rich mixture) it will shorten the time injectors are held open to again get back to the 500 millivolts.

The questions that were presented at the beginning of this article can be explained now that we know this information. Carburetors have no mechanical ability to correct lean or rich fuel mixtures. If air leaks develop in vacuum lines, there will be excessive heat in the combustion chamber (too much air makes it hotter). This excessive heat can damage or melt spark plug electrodes, burn valves, and take the tension out of piston rings, resulting in excess oil consumption and a shorter engine life. If a rich mixture is present, possibly due to carburetor float problems or a sticking choke, you will get poor fuel mileage, bad emissions, and carbon build up on spark plugs and pistons. This will shorten spark plug life and raise the compression, causing the engine to require higher octane fuel to prevent pre-ignition problems.

Modern engines last longer because they have electronic fuel injection that simply corrects the air/fuel ratio, so you never have an excessively rich or lean condition. This is the main reason spark plugs last longer, valves are not burned, and piston rings do not lose their tension resulting in shorter engine life. If the problem is too great for the computer to correct, it will turn on the check engine light located on the dash which is your clue to take the vehicle to a mechanic to correct the problem.

Which Is Best?

It is obvious that most automobiles will be changing to fuel injection systems due to the lower emissions. However, unless the cost of these systems decreases significantly then there will still be a massive following that will stick to carburetors. When looking at pure horsepower, the fuel injection system only delivers about 10 extra horsepower at peak. It is the ability to constantly be tuning the fuel and air intake for each cylinder that benefits the performance. The fuel injection systems are the best as they will decrease vibration and help to overcome steep grades that are traditional terrain for off-roading. Again, which one is best completely depends on where and how you are driving.

CARBURETOR VS FUEL INJECTION: PROS AND CONS

Emissions and fuel economy. Fuel injection, because it can be more precisely controlled, results in more efficient use of fuel, reduced fuel consumption and fewer emissions, which is the main reason it began to replace the carburetor in the 1970s.
Power and performance. Again, because fuel injection and modern electronic controls are more accurate, fuel delivery can be tuned to match driver demand. Carburetors are precise, but not accurate, in that they cannot account for changes in air or fuel temperature or atmospheric pressure.
Cost and complexity. Being purely mechanical devices, carburetors have it hands down over fuel injection regarding cost and complexity. With a can of carburetor cleaner, simple hand tools and maybe a couple of spare parts, you can rebuild a carburetor on your porch or at a rest stop. Whereas with fuel injection, even with years of training and experience and a few thousand dollars in diagnostics gear, you will still need a tow truck to get you off the road should your system burn out on you. Most small engines, such as those on motorcycles, lawn mowers and snow-blowers, are still equipped with carburetors, simply because they are not emissions-regulated, inexpensive, simple, and reliable.

While the carburetor may have been around for over a century, fuel injection is a clearly superior alternative, delivering better power, fuel economy and lower emissions. For the modern driver, this is all you could ask for.

There are plenty of options out there for both carburetors and fuel injection systems, so you do have choices with fuel injection systems usually costing much more than a comparable carburetor system.

So do your homework and understand what you are getting for your money when making you decision on carburetor vs fuel injection.

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Insuring Classic Cars

Robert Scholem — Mon, 09 Nov 2020 13:00:00 +0000

What is the difference between Actual Cash Value (ACV) and Agreed Value when insuring classic cars?

Actual Cash Value (ACV) is defined as the replacement cost minus depreciation. Depreciation is the decrease in value over a period of time, usually as a result of age or wear and tear. Replacement cost is defined as the cost to replace damaged property with materials of like kind and quality.

For example, assume a vintage car is purchased at $20,000. Five years later the classic car is estimated to have depreciated to a value of $10,000. The classic car is involved in a major accident and the cost to repair the damaged vehicle is estimated at $15,000. If the car is insured for the Actual Cash Value, you will receive $10,000 from your insurance carrier, since that is the current value of the car (replacement cost minus depreciation).

What is Actual Value?

Actual value is calculated as the amount to be paid after loss or damage to the property, factoring in depreciation.

This involves coinsurance, meaning the insurance company will cover a certain amount and you will be liable for the remaining.

Actual Value: Are you “fully” covered?

When you get into an accident and total your vehicle, the insurance company will pay a claim. They do not, however, pay the claim for the amount you paid for the vehicle. They factor in the condition of the vehicle and depreciation to determine the settlement.

Example:

$30,000 (Car Value) – $6,000 (Depreciation) = $24,000 (Actual Value)

Actual Value

Standard Cars
Standard Homes
Appliances

Electronics

Agreed Value means that coverage is provided for a pre-determined amount settled upon by both the insured and the insurance company.

Agreed value is less common for your standard auto insurance policy, but may be used for classic/collector cars, and sometimes boats or motorcycles. To insure an item at an agreed value means that the carrier accepts a value submitted by the insured and the maximum pay out, in the event of total loss or theft, is the agreed upon amount.

When consulting with your insurance provider, it is important to know how the value of your property is determined, and what amount of coverage you have in the event you have to file a claim.

What is Agreed Value?

Agreed value is calculated as the full insured amount of the property with no depreciation. Let us take another look at that car: Did I mention it was a Ferrari? The agreed value will return the total amount the vehicle was worth before any theft or damage.

Example:

$500,000 (Car Value) – $0 (Depreciation) = $500,000 (Agreed Value)

Things to note when insuring at Agreed Value:

Total amount of the purchase, or what you paid for the property
Appraisal Value
Appreciation rate (special riders might have to be considered to include appreciation values in the policy)
The value of any modifications

Agreed Value

Luxury items (cars, homes, etc.)
Fine arts
Antiques (Jewelry, Furniture, etc.)
Collectibles/ Rarities
Wine Cellars
Autographs & other memorabilia

The proof that I need are called “comps,” short for comparable, as in comparable vehicles. They do not have to be exact, but they do have to be similar in the attributes that form the basis for the intrinsic value of the vehicle. For example, a red 1969 Chevrolet Camaro SS with a 396 big block engine and a 4-speed transmission, is not the same as a black 1969 Chevrolet Z28 with a 302 engine and a manual transmission as a “comp.” However, a yellow 1968 Camaro SS with a 396 big block engine and a 4-speed transmission may be used because the intrinsic value lies in that fact that it is a Camaro SS with the same drive-train.

No matter how well we know the value of a vehicle, the research and the methodology that go into substantiating the value is the difference between providing an appraisal and providing an opinion of insuring classic cars. The I.R.S., insurance companies, and courts all want appraisals, not opinions. Most appraisers use a formula consisting of publicly recorded sales, published figures, and their own knowledge of the market to arrive at a value. The percentage of each is their own secret recipe, but rest assured that their own knowledge of the market makes up a small percentage of that formula because it is the most difficult to substantiate.

So, what happens when a customer needs an appraisal on a vehicle for which there is not one single record of a publicly recorded sale, and not one single published figure? Simple. I cannot do the appraisal; at least not in the ordinary manner. This can lead to a problem because it is often the case that the insurance company will not insure it without an appraisal.

It is important to understand that this applies predominantly to vehicles that will have an “agreed value” policy with an insurance company that specializes in collector vehicles. With an “actual cash value” policy, which is the conventional type of policy most of us have on our daily drivers, an appraisal is of little value. The insurance company, not you, determines the value of the vehicle at the time of the loss. In the event of a loss, what you paid for the car, or what it was worth when you bought it, or how much you have invested in it, will often have very little bearing on what you’ll get paid when insuring classic cars.

The insurance companies that specialize in collector vehicles are generally very fair and reasonable. You can be sure that this is not the first time that they have been asked to insure a unique car. If you have a reasonable methodology for assigning a value, they will accept it in most cases. However, if you grossly overpay for a vehicle, or spend three times its value on a restoration, you most likely will not be able to have the insurance cover your investment.

If you are buying a particularly rare car, one that will be difficult to appraise, you might want to check with your insurance company to make sure that you’ll be able to protect your investment should the unforeseen happen. The time to check is before you purchase the car.

What Does It All Mean?

In simple terms, actual value is the everyday norm. It is used to insure everyday items that can be easily replaced.

Let us get back to that car; now a Ferrari cannot be replaced at the tip of a hat. The Ferrari California, the most widely produced model, takes about three weeks to make and currently has a two year long wait list. It is a pricey purchase too, averaging around $192,000.

So, insuring at Actual Value is the best move, right?

It depends. In this instance, Actual value would not be the best option for a Ferrari. Why? Because you do not want to receive just a portion of the hundreds of thousands of dollars back that you paid for this vehicle. You want to get all of that back.

How do you insure your property at Agreed Value?

Anything you own that is rare and irreplaceable, you should definitely consider insuring it at agreed value.

The first step is to contact your local insurance agent. Your agent will then put in a request to the insurance company to agree on a value. From there, an appraisal will most likely be requested.

Insurance companies like to do their homework and will ask you questions to ensure what they are providing coverage for is actually valued at the price stated.

Which is right for me?

Now you know the difference between actual and agreed values, as well as the best way to go about settling on an agreed value when insuring classic cars.

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Winterizing Classic Cars

Robert Scholem — Wed, 28 Oct 2020 13:00:00 +0000

Time to Focus on Winterizing Your Classic Car

It is late October in New York, a time that I am normally well into my winter storage planning. However, it is a wonderful fall day outside, which makes it difficult to consider the possibility that cold weather is right around the corner. But it is a good time to think about winterizing your classic car.

So once again, I am going to pass along to you my proven method for storage of your collector car. My definition of a proven method is, “it has worked for me for many years.”

I embrace the concept that it is better to do everything now, so that when spring rolls around you can simply get in the classic car, start the engine, and begin enjoying it for another season.

Before you begin winterizing your vintage car, perform any routine maintenance that you have deferred. This can range from replacing a burned out cigarette lighter or taillight bulb, to a tune-up, to replacing an exhaust system. This is also the ideal time to complete any major repairs such as a transmission rebuild or rear axle rebuild. Tending to these items before storing the car for the winter will prevent repeated nights of sleeplessness as you toss and turn knowing that you have neglected your classic car. Or maybe that is just me.

Once you have tended to maintenance and repairs, it is time to prepare the vintage car for hibernation. There are many different opinions on the best way to do this. But trust me. My way is right. Remember, it is proven method. But more importantly, there is a method to my madness, which I will explain as I go along.

Start by changing the oil and filter, unless it was just done. The old oil will contain contaminants, especially if you used the car infrequently, and on short trips. Drive the car to a gas station and add a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil in the amount recommended on the bottle. Add a little extra. It will not hurt. I also add Marvel Mystery oil to the tank as well; as my farmer grandfather told me did with all his trucks and tractors which seems to drive forever. Then fill the fuel tank to the tippy-top. By adding the fuel after the stabilizer, it will mix thoroughly in the fuel tank.

Take the old car for a drive that is long enough for the engine to get up to operating temperature. By doing this you will accomplish several things. First, you will circulate fresh oil through the engine, much of which will (hopefully) remain there to prevent rust until spring. Second, you will burn off many of the contaminants in the oil, one of which is water. Third, you will get the exhaust system hot enough to burn off any moisture, thus preventing, or minimizing, rust in the exhaust system. Most exhaust systems rust from the inside out, not the outside in. Fourth, a trip that is long enough to get the car up to operating temperature is also long enough for the fuel that you have treated with the stabilizer to reach the carburetor and all of its small passages.

There are two additional things that you can accomplish on this trip. You’re going to have to the clean the inside and outside of the classic car before you put it away for storage, so unless you plan on doing it yourself, this would be a good time to take the vintage car to the car wash or detailer. This would also be a good time to check the air in the tires and inflate them to 5 PSI over the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewalls. Keep in mind that the tires are warm, and the inflation pressure will drop when they cool off. Do not put the classic car up on blocks. Suspensions were not designed to hang in mid-air for months at a time. Conversely, the tires were designed to sit on the ground for their entire lives. If they are properly inflated, “flat-spots” should not be an issue.

The final step is to “fog out” the engine. Do this once the classic car is parked where it is to be stored for the winter, and while it is still warm from its trip. Remove the air cleaner and spray “engine fogger” into the carburetor with the engine running at a high idle. Once you see smoke coming out of the exhaust, shut off the engine and replace the air-cleaner. “Fogging out” the engine coats many of the internal engine surfaces, as well as the inside of the exhaust with a coating designed to prevent rust formation. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and put the battery on a “maintainer” or trickle charger.

Some classic car enthusiasts add a quick disconnector to the battery for easier service on disconnecting the terminal.

That is it. You are done.

Perhaps the best advice I can give you is what not to do during the winter storage months. Do not start the engine periodically. It does no good, and in fact it probably does harm. Most engine wear takes place when an engine is started cold. This is made even worse when an engine that has been sitting for an extended period of time is started, because much of the protective coating of oil on vital surfaces is minimized, or even gone.

So let your car hibernate for the winter months. It will awaken clean and ready to go on that first spring day that you just cannot resist taking it out for a ride.

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Taking A Drive – The Berkshires MA

Robert Scholem — Mon, 19 Oct 2020 13:00:00 +0000

Taking a drive is not always about a highway or high speed run, but more concerning the scenery and winding roads.

The Berkshires region of western Massachusetts is known for its outdoor adventures like hiking and water sports, as well as cultural experiences. Home to several performance centers, including Tanglewood and Jacob’s Pillow, the Berkshires offers a variety of shows and events year-round. What’s more, there are also a plethora of museums that reel in history buffs and art lovers, including the Norman Rockwell Museum and “Moby Dick” author Herman Melville’s Arrowhead Home.

Western Massachusetts provides that opportunity along Route 7 from the southern boarder of Connecticut all the way to Vermont with plenty of side roads to explore. Route 7 provides a north/south drive from I95 in Connecticut all the way to the Canadian boarder heading to Montreal which is a popular drive for the motorcycle cruisers.

The Berkshires, throughout the seasons, presents an amazing world of contrasts for the classic car owner. Sophisticated pastimes blend harmoniously with pastoral scenery. High adventure is available with the plentitude of outdoor recreation opportunities, while a richness of history complements the area’s contemporary enlightenment.

Positioned in the rolling hills between two of the America’s best cities – New York and Boston – the Berkshires area plays out the best of two worlds. It will satisfy your yearning for the quiet, scenic countryside, yet also provide a treasure of culture, art, scenery, and hiking.

Charming lodgings, fine restaurants, excellent shopping, and an endless events calendar make every stay here unforgettable for the vintage car cruise.

This historic region offers a wealth of memorable events and activities framed by breathtaking natural beauty. The Berkshires feature year-round culture, recreation, and adventure in quaint towns like Stockbridge, Lenox, and Williamstown, while North Adams has the fabulous Museum of Contemporary Art. There is no shortage of places to stay , shop, and dine. Great ziplines and canopy tours are here; for all-day fun, visit Look Park with a zoo, lake, water spray park, 18 holes of miniature golf and six tennis courts. In winter, family-friendly skiing and other snow sports are just a short walk uphill.

Just a few of the things to do:

The Berkshire Mountains of western Massachusetts are considered one of the premier leaf peeping destinations in the United States. Every October, the trees put on a dazzling display of fall foliage to the delight of camera-wielding tourists like me. But what else is there to do in the Berkshires besides look at the leaves? Plenty! The area has long been a bastion for artists like Edith Wharton and Norman Rockwell, who found inspiration in the charmingly small town of Stockbridge. Read on to discover the some of the best attractions in western Massachusetts.

THE MOUNT, EDITH WHARTON’S HOME

Edith Wharton was an accomplished American writer and the first woman to receive the Pulitzer Prize for Literature. She was a prolific author, penning 40 books in 40 years, including her two most famous novels: The Age of Innocence and The House of Mirth. In both, Wharton examines the strict moral and social codes of 19th century New York high society. Born into that world of wealth and privilege, she grew increasingly frustrated with its strict rules and double standards, especially regarding women’s expected behavior. She preferred the quiet confines of The Mount, her private estate in Lenox, Massachusetts, where she could breathe in corset-free comfort. In fact, she did most of her writing in bed!

While The Mount looks lavish to my untrained eye, it was actually revolutionary for its lack of excess. Wharton created a home that was bright and airy, in stark contrast to the dark and heavy Victorian style that was popular at the time. She designed the gardens following the same unpretentious principles and was enormously pleased with the result, even bragging to friends about her landscape gardening skills.

NORMAN ROCKWELL MUSEUM

Norman Rockwell is another iconic American artist who called the Berkshires home. For fifty years, Rockwell presented his idealized vision of New England life as illustrated covers for the Saturday Evening Post. These scenes often featured freckle-faced boys getting into mischief and quintessential American activities like baseball and family vacations. But Rockwell also tackled more serious issues facing the nation, such as entry into WWII and de-segregation. Many of his magazine covers and paintings are on display at the Norman Rockwell Museum in Stockbridge, where he lived and worked for 25 years.

STOCKBRIDGE

Stockbridge, Massachusetts was founded by English missionaries in the 1730s, but Norman Rockwell put the town on the map. His depiction of Stockbridge Main Street at Christmas became an instant classic. Today, aside from the cars and tour groups, the town appears little changed since being immortalized in 1967. The white-washed shops exude country charm and rocking chairs on the front porch of the Red Lion Inn beckon the weary.

MOHAWK TRAIL

The Mohawk Trail is a scenic drive through Massachusetts’ so-called Pioneer Valley. It follows Route 2 over a Native American trade route, hence the name. The trail’s symbol is a large bronze sculpture of a Native American called “Hail to the Sunrise,” but I somehow drove past without seeing it. I did stop for the “Elk on the Trail,” a WWI memorial erected by the Order of the Elks. The Mohawk Trail stretches for 63 miles through the Berkshire foothills, past charming towns, and breathtaking scenery. All the remaining attractions I mention below can be found on or near the trail.

MOUNT GREYLOCK

The Mohawk Trail begins in the Berkshires near Mount Greylock, the highest peak in Massachusetts. From the summit of 3,491 feet you can supposedly see five states, though they all looked the same to me. The drive to the top was much more exciting, with gorgeous scenery around every turn. I was stunned to find myself nearly alone on the road, especially in peak foliage season.

BRIDGE OF FLOWERS

My favorite stop on the Mohawk Trail is the Bridge of Flowers. In 1908, a trolley bridge was built across the Deerfield River connecting the towns of Shelburne and Buckland. But by 1927, automobiles had rendered the trolley obsolete. Rather than see the bridge torn down, the local women’s club decided to turn it into a public garden. The bridge has been covered with flowers ever since. I visited in October when the dahlias were out in all their glory.

GLACIAL POTHOLES

A short walk from the Bridge of Flowers is another interesting sight, the glacial potholes of Salmon Falls. These rock formations were carved 14,000 years ago during the last Ice Age, when water flooded the area and eroded the bedrock. Today it looks like a river of marble. The Deerfield River still flows but has been dammed near the potholes. The salmon that gave the site its name are long gone.

FRENCH KING BRIDGE

Continue driving east on Route 2 and you will cross the French King Bridge. This iron span was erected in 1932 and promptly named one of the most beautiful bridges in America. But it is the view of the Connecticut River you really want to see. There is a small parking lot on the western end and a pedestrian walkway so you can safely access the bridge.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE BERKSHIRES

There is an abundance of hotels and Inns all along the route which provide accommodations from luxury hotels to spas and bed-n-breakfasts.

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Taking A Drive – Stowe Vermont

Robert Scholem — Mon, 21 Sep 2020 13:00:00 +0000

One of the great opportunities about owning a vintage car or truck is the ability to just take a scenic drive. There is an abundance of wonderful areas throughout the country to do just that. The first in the series of Taking A Drive blogs looks at the Waterbury Stowe Vermont area which provides numerous roads for such a drive as well as food and lodging.

Stowe is a town in northern Vermont. It is overlooked by Mount Mansfield, known for its trails and ski slopes. The Auto Toll Road climbs to the summit ridge. Near the base, Smugglers’ Notch State Park has dense forest and a narrow mountain pass. The Stowe Recreation Path follows the West Branch of the Little River through town, with mountain views. The Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum exhibits ski gear and artifacts.

The primary drive runs along Route 108 and Route 100 between Jeffersonville and Waterbury thru Stowe Vermont.

Along this drive you will encounter some great views of the maintains and Stowe Vermont valley as you wind your way along twisting roads. There is quite a bit to see in this general area as well as curvy back roads between Jeffersonville and Burlington Vermont at Lake Champlain’s edge. This area is filled with fine roadside restaurants that offer all sorts of food from Italian to local Vermont produce American cuisine. The Stowe area also has plenty of hotels from full size resorts to simple Bed-n-Breakfasts.

The area has plenty to see if you wish to stop your classic car, and walk the trails or the local shops. Taking a break to shop along the way takes in everything from art and jewelry stores with products from the local artists; farm stands with fresh foods, and even the Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory.

The roads are great fun to drive along the 2 lanes with plenty of turns, banks and straight of ways to enjoy your old car by putting it thru its paces.

Seasonal events are also available with hot air balloon shows, and even a large car show in early August by the Vermont Automobile Enthusiasts. (vtauto.org)

So, if you’re convinced that Stowe might be a wonderful place to visit, check out this list of the best things to do there.

Ride in a Hot Air Balloon

The best places to fly in a hot air balloon are scenic spots like the Stowe region. As you soar over the Green Mountains, you will have a magical experience, shared with your favorite person. The Stoweflake Resort offers rides and hosts the exciting Stowe Balloon Festival every July.

Hike to a Cascading Waterfall

Mountainous Stowe is an excellent destination for those who enjoy hiking. There are a range of trails that will suit various levels of experience.

The Long Trail, which traverses Vermont from north to south, runs across Mount Mansfield in Stowe. You can climb to the top of Mansfield via a few different trailheads, two of which are in Smuggler’s Notch. Want awesome views? Stowe Pinnacle might be a good choice, taking approximately 90 minutes to reach the top. Sterling Pond is another great hike, bringing you to an elevated trout pond. In the fall, this will be fringed with yellows and reds. You can continue on the same trail to the summit of Spruce Peak.

But a short and romantic hike is one with a waterfall at the end, like these. Area waterfalls include Bingham Falls and Moss Glen Falls, both impressive and scenic, and accessible via fairly short hikes. Enjoy the views or go for a dip on a hot summer afternoon.

Indulge in a Spa Day

After a hike, unwind with a massage or other spa treatment. Better yet, book an entire spa day or afternoon for two. The Stoweflake has an insanely awesome spa, with some 35,000 square feet of space and dozens of treatments available. You can easily spend blissful hours here, enjoying the steam rooms, sauna, jacuzzi, mineral baths, and quiet spaces. The highlight of the Stoweflake Spa is their Aqua Solarium, complete with a waterfall pool, which is modeled after the real Bingham Falls in the region. This rock-lined, warm-water pool allows you to sit underneath a 12-foot cascading waterfall which serves as a therapeutic massage for a tired neck and shoulders. Total serenity.

At the Stoweflake, you can book specific couples’ treatments. A side-by-side massage is a romantic choice, or meet in the Aqua Solarium following your individual treatments. Consider an Apres Ski Massage to soothe your tired muscles is or, if you’re after one of the signature treatments the luxuriant Vermont Maple Sugar Body Polish. Spa access is $20/day for hotel guests ($25 on Saturdays) but complimentary on the day of your treatment appointment. Non-hotel guests are welcome at the Stoweflake Spa as well, for a rate of $40 ($50 on Saturdays).

Sample Vermont’s Culinary Delights

Vermont has amazing things to eat. While there is plenty to indulge in within Stowe itself, take time during your drive through the area along Route 100 between Waterbury and Stowe. Here you can let your inner foodie go wild.

First, you’ll come across the Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory. Head inside for a factory tour (breathe in deeply, the whole place smells like heaven), and snag some samples. Ben & Jerry’s is such a Vermont staple, you really should not miss it.

Next up is the Cabot Farmer’s Store where you’ll find the best cheese ever. Cabot Cheese is known for their phenomenal cheddar. In the store, you can sample this, plus about 20 other flavors. As if that was not enough, the store is stocked with all kinds of Vermont products: wine, beer, cider, jams, jellies, crackers, syrup, and more. Go ahead and buy your fill. When you’re all cheesed out, go next door for some spirit tasting at the Smuggler’s Notch Distillery and chocolate samples at Lake Champlain Chocolates.

Just a few minutes further down the road is the Cold Hollow Cider Mill, an amazing spot that I’ve enjoyed visiting for years. This is a destination for apple lovers. They make the best apple cider and even more amazing apple cider donuts. In recent years, they’ve expanded. Cold Hollow now offers hard cider (you can sample it right on the property) plus a tasty cafe called The Apple Core. And in the same building is tasting offered by Boyden Valley Winery (taste the Maple Creme). Truly, you won’t even need lunch after this culinary road trip.

Finally, have an awesome beverage at the newly opened European-style coffee bar located at the Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea Company. A maple latte is always a delicious choice.

In Stowe itself, head to the breweries and the cidery for more tasting! You’ll find The Alchemist (home of the famous Heady Topper) here, and plus Idletyme Brewing and Stowe Cider.

Hop On for a Horse & Carriage Ride

Romance is connected to a nostalgia for the past, for simpler times. Put away the electronics and enjoy nature on a horse-drawn carriage ride. In the winter, these become sleighs, ferrying you across a snowy wonderland. Gentle Giants carriage and sleigh rides are located right on Mountain Road, just a few minutes from The Stoweflake, and are open seven days a week throughout the year.

Take in the Views from the Trapp Family Lodge

The von Trapp family (whose story was told–and expanded upon–in the film The Sound of Music) settled in Stowe, Vermont in the 1940s. They opened a guest house to welcome visitors, and the Trapp Family Lodge was born. Today, this is an Austrian-inspired property that has gorgeous views overlooking Stowe.

Sail Away on a Fall Foliage Boat Ride

If you’re coming to Vermont in for its striking fall foliage, prepare for some slightly crowded roads. VT welcomes many “leaf peepers” each season, and traffic often moves a bit slowly as a result. We have a better way for you to enjoy the vibrant leaves–with a fall foliage boat ride. Local fishing guides and suppliers The Fly Rod Shop offer an innovative fall activity.

Hidden away in the region is a stunning man-made lake known as Waterbury Reservoir. Here is where you will experience the foliage at its best. Away from the chaos of the roadways, your scenic boat tour brings you through a peaceful and quiet lake.

In the fall, there are very few people on the reservoir, lending the experience an intimate touch. It feels as though you are exploring your own private lake. As for romantic things to do in Stowe, VT, this definitely qualifies.

Feeling adventurous? There is an amazing zipline that will zoom you down the mountain. For a couple’s activity, you can go side-by-side. It is certainly much easier to fly through the air when your loved one is on the neighboring line!

There are three zipline spans, all together totaling just under two miles of line. That makes the Stowe ZipTour® the second-longest zipline tour in the United States.

Stroll Through the Village

Stowe has a postcard-perfect downtown. The tiny Main Street is exceedingly charming, with the white-steepled church as its focal point. A romantic Stowe getaway would not be complete without some time spent walking hand-in-hand through the village. Stop into Shaw’s General Store for a foray into the past, Bear Pond Books for reading material, and browse locally owned boutiques, craft, and antique shops galore.

Access into this region for the backroads driving is via US Interstate 91 which connects to US Interstate 90 in southern Vermont, or by taking the scenic ferry ride across Lake Champlain into Burlington to the west.

We encourage you to take a drive on these beautiful roads if you are in the area.

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